I’d advise a Saint Valentine’s day dinner chez Christian Têtedoie. It’s the kind of place that reminds you what life was like before kids: clean lines, minimalist, chic and shiny and that goes for the food too. The view is époustouflant…
Montée du Chemin Neuf, 69005 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 29 40 10
Up on the hill of Fourvière:
Les Térasses, Villa Florentine (1*)
No photograph will come close to the view from this Florentine Villa par excellence. It is beautiful but perhaps more so by day. Here would be a great place to try your first quenelle made not from pike but lobster and served with wild mushroom emulsion and hazelnut oil.
Chef: Davy Tissot.
25 Montée Saint-Barthélémy, 69005 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 72 56 56 56
Down in the old town:
Les Loges (1*)
Tucked away in the heart of the 5 star Cour des Loges hotel in Lyon’s old town, this beautiful restaurant is reminiscent of a Florentine courtyard, with its marble floor and spectacular high glass ceiling. Chef Anthony Bonnet was awarded the Gault Millau Gold in 2007 as a “Talented Young Chef” and the establishment gained its first Michelin Star in 2012. The menu is traditional (pigeon, oxtail…) yet innovative and oh so refined.
6 Rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon,
+33 (0) 4 72 77 44 44
Café Gadagne (Member of the Toques Blanches Lyonnaises)
While we’re in the old town, I want to tell you about the restaurant at the Musée Gadagne, Lyon’s history museum. This gem is well worth knowing if, on a sunny day, you happen to be in this area and you don’t have a gastronomical budget, but you also don’t want to get stuck in a tourist trap eatery. Head to the museum, take the lift to the fourth floor and prepare to be delighted! You will find a haven of quiet and green, tucked away high above the bustle of the narrow, cobbled streets. Once you’re out on the terrace, you really feel like you’ve found something a bit special. Chef Maxime Tardy really provides some of the best dishes I’ve tasted anywhere… especially for 15 Euros!
1 Place du Petit Collège, 69005 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 62 34 60
Hop over the Saone and onto the Peninsula:
Toute Une Histoire
Just off the cobbled, restaurant-lined rue Mercière (very popular with tourists) you will find a great place to stop off for an inexpensive, elegant lunch. Chef Darbandsari fuses Persian and French cuisine. His knowledge of flavours and his skill for combining them is spectacular, with dishes such as lamb with lemon, duck with pomegranate and gilthead sea bream served with barberry rice. All delicious and an absolute steal, with the dish of the day priced at around 10 Euros. Good wine here too!
Toute une Histoire
4 Rue du Petit David, 69002 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 37 40 62
Cross Place des Jacobins and head to Place Bellecour:
The l’Institut Bellecour-Lyon
Paul Bocuse has opened a new training school right in the centre of Lyon at Place Bellecour. This is wonderful news for all who work in the city centre and for the students too, because it means a steady flow of customers at lunchtime! This is a win-win situation: the students get practice and we lucky eaters get a gastronomic treat. I need make no further comment, this is Bocuse.
l’Institut restaurant-école Paul Bocuse
20 Place Bellecour, 69002 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 37 23 02
Walk towards the Remparts d’Ainay:
This bouchon has been here since 1726. The current owner, Alain Vigneron has been there for 37 years…what more can I say? It’s a long-standing love affair and you just have to go there to become a part of it.
Café Comptoir Abel
25 Rue Guynemer, 69002 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 37 46 18
Cross the Rhône and head for the Parc de la Tête d’Or:
Takao Takano is back. After what seemed like an eternity, his eponymous new restaurant has just opened in the sixth district: a zen sanctuary, once behind the big wooden door, you can relax and indulge. A sample five-course menu including: pan-fried foie gras with a raspberry and beetroot jus, cod served with sweet peas and a citron ‘burst’, saddle of lamb and artichoke purée, matured cheeses and a chocolate tarte served with Tonka bean ice cream.
33 Rue Malesherbes, 69006 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 82 31 43 39
12 Rue Royale, 69001 Lyon.
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 23 17 20
Café des Federations
8 Rue Major Martin, 69001 Lyon
tel. +33 (0) 4 78 28 26 00